Essaouira runs at a different speed from Marrakech. The medina is small, flat, walled and washed white and blue, and the wind that made it useless as a beach resort for most of the twentieth century is exactly why surfers and kitesurfers now fill it.
We drive west through the argan plateau, stopping at a women’s cooperative where the oil is still pressed by hand. You then have around five hours in the town — enough to walk the ramparts, see the boat builders still working in the harbour, eat grilled fish chosen from the morning catch, and get properly lost in a medina that is impossible to get properly lost in.
Exactly as described
Booked three things through Atlas Nomad in a week and every pickup was on time. The driver on the Agafay trip went out of his way to find us a quieter spot for the sunset.
Worth the early start
A long day but the guide paced it well and never rushed us. Being able to pay the balance on the day made booking from home much easier.
Très bien organisé
Organisation impeccable et guide passionnant. Le déjeuner n était pas inclus, ce qui est clairement indiqué, mais prévoyez des espèces.
Stony desert forty minutes from the medina: a camel ride along the ridge, mint tea as the light goes, then dinner under the stars.
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An hour from the city the air changes: walnut trees, a river, and a walk up to seven waterfalls stepped into the mountainside at Setti Fatma.
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Morocco’s highest falls drop 110 metres in three stages, with wild macaques in the olive groves and a boat that takes you into the spray.
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