The Agafay is not the Sahara , there are no dunes, but it is genuine desert, and it is close enough to Marrakech that you can be standing in silence on a ridge of grey rock forty minutes after leaving your riad.
We drive out in the late afternoon, when the heat has gone out of the day and the low sun starts to pick out the folds in the hills. You have around an hour on camelback along the ridgeline, at a pace that suits complete beginners, with a handler walking alongside. Afterwards there is mint tea and a plate of Moroccan pastries at the camp while the sun drops behind the Atlas.
Dinner is a three-course Moroccan meal served in the camp: salads, a tagine, seasonal fruit. When the light has gone the sky here is genuinely dark, and on a clear night the Milky Way is visible to the naked eye.
Exactly as described
Booked three things through Atlas Nomad in a week and every pickup was on time. The driver on the Agafay trip went out of his way to find us a quieter spot for the sunset.
Worth the early start
A long day but the guide paced it well and never rushed us. Being able to pay the balance on the day made booking from home much easier.
Très bien organisé
Organisation impeccable et guide passionnant. Le déjeuner n était pas inclus, ce qui est clairement indiqué, mais prévoyez des espèces.
An hour from the city the air changes: walnut trees, a river, and a walk up to seven waterfalls stepped into the mountainside at Setti Fatma.
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Three hours west and twenty degrees calmer: a walled port town of blue shutters, gulls, grilled sardines and constant wind.
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Morocco’s highest falls drop 110 metres in three stages, with wild macaques in the olive groves and a boat that takes you into the spray.
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